So we’re halfway through January already (almost). The Christmas break now feels like a distant dream. But, that means that payday is slowly but surely approaching – yay!
After the pictures of the handsome husbeast last week, I’m afraid you’re back to pictures of me – soz. But I have made a pretty cool shirt 🙂 Those of you that are regular readers will know that I’m on a quest to make a perfectly fitting one.
Spoiler alert: I’m still quest-ing, but making progress.
I’ve made another Vogue/DKNY V1462, this time raising the armscye to see if it improves the fit. It does, BUT not enough to solve all my problems – I’m still getting these little pull lines under the armpit (see those, in the picture below?). This means one thing and one thing only – Too Much Boobage For The Pattern, also more eloquently known as Full Bust Adjustment Required.
I’ve been delving into t’internet and reading up on different methods and approaches. I’ve discovered that FBAs can be darted, or dartless. Either way, it seems I’m gonna end up with more width in the bodice. Am I cool with that? I’m not sure. I have quite a small waist in comparison to my hips, and having loads of fabric around my middle is not normally something I go for. I may have to start slimming side seams a bit here.
I found this tutorial from Paprika with instructions on how to go about doing a dartless FBA… This V1462 is a dartless shirt, and I’m not sure whether I really fancy adding a dart in because I sort of prefer the cleaner lines without it – but I don’t want to add too much fabric in either. I want a shirt, not a tent or a maternity top.
But on the other hand, I don’t want the shirt to be TOO fitted. I want a happy medium. Ahh, the dramas. Let’s see how it works out. Fitted shirts, especially those with princess seams just scream ‘office formal’ to me even if they are made in awesome fabrics, so I don’t want to go down that road, even if that’s where my quest for a good fit takes me.
I just want a nice boyfriend shirt, that will comfortably fit my boobs but not be four times the size of my waist. And not make me look 10 years older than I am. I want to be able to wear a shirt to work without feeling like I’m wearing a shirt to work. That’s not too much to ask, surely?
This article (partly shown below) from Cashmerette has a pretty good approach to a darted FBA – you just follow steps 1-7 and you’re off. This is the approach I’m going to follow for my next version of this shirt, and see how it works out. I’m sticking with the same pattern because 1. It’s already traced and I know what I’m doing, and 2. I want to perfect the adjustment on one pattern where I know how it fits me before I start throwing new patterns into the mix.
Here’s the first few steps:
Doesn’t seem too bad… right? I can do this ??
So! Moving on to the actual shirt. It’s my trusty friend V1462. Collared and cuffed long sleeve shirt – my wardrobe staple. Usually worn slightly creased because I can’t be bothered to iron it. When I was looking at these photos, I realised how the skinny jeans I own do NOT suit me. Gah. I need a higher waist, and a not-so-spray-on calf. It’s pushing me towards getting into trouser-making so that I can make something that suits me because I only have one (one!) pair of jeans that I’m actually comfortable in. I’ve reached the point where I just can’t bring myself to spend three hours jeans shopping to come home empty-handed. I’m going to tackle the Gingers this year FO SHO, but first I’m gonna ease myself in with a pair of Burda trousers that I’ve seen and fallen in love with:
You gotta look past the awful styling, obvs ? And I might buy a cool set of braces rather than make them… because let’s be real these ones look a bit naff.
I’m interested to see how a looser leg looks/feels on me… I’m loving that high waist and of course the braces – it’s just like my Madeline skirt, but – well – trousers instead of a skirt.
In my mind, that wide and high waistband is going to balance out how big my hips will probably look, but reality may prove to be very different and the pleats on the front may not play well with my stomach. I’m picturing the look in my head as a 30’s aesthetic, with rolled up sleeves and a vintage turban. And perhaps my Dr Martens.
I keep looking at the Esther trousers by Victory Patterns, which have a similar pleated leg to these – but haven’t taken the plunge because of the fact they may look totally hideous on me. If these Burda Bad Boys are successful I may take that leap and never look back, which would be awesome. Either way, I’m keeping these pictures of my skinny jeans in my mind as my motivation to get my arse in gear and start sewing trousers, the same way as I’d keep a fat picture on the biscuit tin to stop me from scoffing the lot. There’s a humongous trouser-shaped hole in my sewing that needs to be filled. That goes for both me and the husband.
But, I digress. Again. The cotton that the shirt is made from is a medium-weight cotton, more of an autumn-winter shirt as it’s thicker than a cotton lawn – just a little thinner than a quilting cotton. It’s a little out of my comfort zone, colour wise – WHITE, SO MUCH WHITE – but I couldn’t resist the print! It’s got posh ladies all over it, in their posh frocks striking posh-lady poses.
I still can’t quite get my collars to meet in the centre above the top button… I follow the markings on the collar stand pieces but never seem to get it to work! I nailed it on my silk shirt that I made recently from this same pattern, but I’ve no idea how – total fluke…
I used my usual method of bias tape for the hem – yep, this is probably more time-consuming than pressing and stitching (in fact, it definitely is) but I kind of enjoy it. I’m nerdy like that – I love slowing the whole process down and taking my time over something. It also helps that I can actually get round the curved hem properly with bias tape, because I literally can’t for the life of me get anything that doesn’t resemble a total shambles by pressing it.
I also really love the cuff placket on this pattern – it’s one of those ones where you cut a slit in the sleeve and install it, so it’s a totally separate pattern piece to the sleeve. On the shirt pattern I use for the husband (V8759) the placket is part of the sleeve piece, which is really annoying because you then can’t french seam the sleeve as it turns into the placket towards the cuff :/ I haven’t yet figured out a way to finish those seams nicely yet on his shirts, which feels really weird and unfinished for a Vogue pattern. And frustrates me to the max because it looks rubbish on the inside.
Despite the boob-issues, I’m a happy bunny with my shirt – and it breaks up the very red-pink-purple trend in my wardrobe.
This was actually my December Minerva Crafts make – I’ve got a little bit out of sync with my posts so I’m now catching up! You can read more about the shirt if you head on over to my full post on the Minerva Crafts Blog – enjoy!
PS – before you go…
You may have seen my recent post on social media regarding a Q&A blog post I’m going to be doing over the next few weeks – long story short, I get all sorts of questions from you lovely people and I thought it’d be a good idea to consolidate them all into one place. So… fire your questions at me and I’ll include them in the post! It could be to do with sewing, blogging, social media, blog photography, hair dye tips or about me… go for it! Post your questions in the comments below, don’t be shy 🙂
Coming up next week on the Wanderstitch blog… the coat you’ve all been waiting for, after I teased you on social media with the sneak peeks! ? Subscribe below to make sure you don’t miss out!