Gimme Some Sugar

You guys know how much I love Deer and Doe patterns, so I’m not gonna try to deny it ๐Ÿคท๐Ÿปโ€โ™€๏ธ๐Ÿคฃ

Let’s move forward from that and on to my latest make from their newly-released collection! ๐Ÿ™Œ๐Ÿป

I remember when I first started sewing in my twenties, and the majority of patterns available were from the likes of Vogue, Butterick etc. I hadn’t even heard of pdf patterns back then (were they even a thing that long ago?! I’m not sure ๐Ÿค”) The patterns I made were just so…ย un-stylish for a young person. I enjoyed the sewing process, but was always left disappointed with how the finished garments looked on me. Then, I discovered Deer and Doe patterns – and was gobsmacked that there were actually sewing patterns for clothes that lookedย trendy.ย I realised that sewing wasn’t just for grandmas and people who wanted to look like a 40-year-old corporate woman. It was a revelation.

The first patterns I bought were the Belladonne Dress and the Chardon Skirt – and I still have my copies of those printed patterns in the old design packaging:

deer and doe belladone dress 534px 534px

The Chardon skirt pattern I still use, but the Belladonne dress I cut out in some way-too-optimistic small size which unless I plan on dropping maybe 25kg I don’t think I’ll ever get into again ๐Ÿคฃ (I did buy a second copy of the Belladonne to make my more recent dresses, but I’ve still kept the original one because – well,ย nostalgia innit).

The Deer and Doe patterns just fit my shape so well. I think I have more me-mades from their patterns that get worn regularly than any other brand. In fact that’s almost definitely the case – I even have three more of their designs made up that haven’t hit the blog yet! There’s another Datura blouse which I made for a friend’s wedding a couple of weeks back, the Safrans which I made last year and photographed in New York, and a second Belladonne dress which I finished off at the end of last year once it was too cold to photograph it.

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Top row L-R: Sleeveless Bruyere shirt, Belladonne dress, Bleuet dress, Chardon skirt

Bottom row: Datura Blouse and long sleeved Bruyere shirt

When the lovely Camille reached out to see if I’d be interested in sewing up a design from their latest pattern collection, I obviously jumped at the chance! ๐Ÿ™‹๐Ÿปโ€โ™€๏ธ

The pattern was the Agave skirt – an asymmetric wrap skirt.

agave skirt pattern

agave skirt pattern 2

There’s two versions of the skirt, which from the line drawings on the pattern appear to be exactly the same ๐Ÿง The difference is on the inside – version A is reversible, and version B has an interior facing (and therefore isn’t reversible, unless you like the ‘inside out’ look). I don’t really feel I have a need for a reversible skirt, so I chose version B.

This changed my direction on some of the potential fabric options I would have normally considered for a skirt – this skirt wouldn’t be lined, so I couldn’t make it in any fabric that would be worn with tights, because of the sticking-potential (or I could wear a slip, I guess, but I still haven’t made my peace with that ๐Ÿคฃ). I couldn’t choose anything itchy or rough either (like jacquards, for example) as it would be worn directly against the skin.

I deliberated for ages – literally forever – over what fabric to use for this skirt. And I knew the deadline was looming, which wasn’t helped by me faffing around looking at what felt like every fabric that was ever made.

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It actually took me a little while before I remembered my self-imposed 2019 ‘fabric-buying-ban’ (๐Ÿ˜’)… and so then I started delving into the stash instead. I had come away empty handed from the online search anyway, so I thought I may as well see what I’ve already got, right?

I came up with a couple of possibilities:

The leftovers of this Grainline Scout tee:

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Could I make a skirt and then wear the two as either separates or a matching-set-slash-fake-dress? Maybe. But on presenting this option to the husbeast, he said it was horrible. So we moved on.

The repurposed fabric from this skirt? (yes, I’ve cut it up ๐Ÿ˜ฑ):

Simplicity 8211 Dirndl skirt in black and gold leopard silk jacquard

Nice, but not enough fabric.

Some Zen Charmer fabric? Maybe…

Deer and Doe Belladonne Dress in Alexander Henry Zen Charmer Fabric

Some Corduory? Could be a bit too heavy, for what I think is actually a summer weight skirt.

Denim? It’s quite thick, so see previous comment above ๐Ÿ‘†๐Ÿป

I’ve got some wool suiting that I picked up from Goldhawk Road a while back, but it possibly feels a bit formal, especially after I made this skirt from wool suiting as well and had that exact feeling about the finished item:

Lily Sage Wonderland Skirt Final 0929

I found some poly crepe which was also picked up from Goldhawk Road at the same time as the suiting (and is pretty much the same colour), but is it too drapey? ๐Ÿค”

You guys, the struggle was real. Nothing really grabbed my attention. I delved deeper into the bag of Haribo that was lying around, hoping that the little gummy bears held the answer.

They didn’t.

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Then…

Good ol’ Alexander Henry came steaming in to save the day.

taupe grey Alexander Henry fabric woman skull flower Halloween Las Elegantes 218140 6

I found my leftover pieces of the ‘Las Elegantes’ print (from the afore-mentioned non-yet-blogged Belladonne dress) and decided that yes – this could work. But… there wasn’t enough. I’d need to buy more fabric to have enough to sew the skirt. Did this count as breaking my ‘no fabric buying pledge’? ๐Ÿค” (Did it even matter, if I was planning on breaking it in the first place?) I already had some of the fabric, and as I was just buying some extra to put with it, I made the executive decision that the overall effect was one of reducing the stash – which is the whole point of the ‘no buying’ thing – and therefore it did NOT count as breaking the pledge.

Decision made, and extra material purchased from Frumble. Next day delivery, YAS ๐Ÿ™Œ๐Ÿป

On to the pattern cutting. I’d already been super-organised and sent the file to Patternsy for printing, but then realised I’d run out of tracing paper so had to actually cut the printed tissue. Not the end of the world, and it does save a bit of time not having to trace, but usually I prefer to trace. Why? I don’t really know, actually ๐Ÿค” Maybe I’ll quit that ๐Ÿคท๐Ÿปโ€โ™€๏ธ๐Ÿ˜‚

On cutting out the pattern (I cut a 42, with slight reservations that it might be a smidge too big, but I thought it was better to cut the 42 and take it in than cut the 40 and not be able to get my ass into it), I realised that the skirt was WAY too short for me. Perfect if a shorter skirt is what you’re in the market for, but I personally prefer a slightly longer length – especially as I have a naturally high waist and that automatically makes things at least a couple of inches shorter on me.

The photos from the pattern envelope didn’t look that short, but holding the pattern piece against me it seemed alarmingly short. Like, barely-covered-my-bum kind of short.

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I definitely do not want there to be any sort of risk of me flashing my bum to the rest of the world, so I added 10cm of length all round – but this did mean redrafting the side seam lines between the two halves I’d just spread apart, and also adding the same length on to the facing as well and making sure that the side seam of the facing matched the new side seam I’d just redrawn on the skirt.

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The facing pieces are HUGE, guys. The pieces are a couple of inches deep, and basically a big L shape. They’re just slightly too big to fit on the fabric nestled in to each other (well, they were on my 45 inch wide fabric – you’d be okay with 60 inch) so you have to cut them separately with a big gap left between them. The yardage chart allows for this though (which is why the 2.5 yards suggested seems a fair bit for a skirt) so there should be no surprises or swearing. The interfacing for these pieces though was another matter – there was NO WAY I could fit those huge beasts on the interfacing I had available, so I followed the tip in the instruction booklet and cut each piece in two sections – joining them at the corner.

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The size 42 did prove to be a bit too big in the end – I’d marked the buttonholes on the waistband but a nice snug fit around my waist moved those markings in about an inch. It’s totally fine though – because it’s a wrap skirt you’ve got a fair margin of error with the fit at the waist (although not too much, obvs) because you can just increase the wrap section or decrease it by a little bit. A little bit though guys, you don’t want to be reducing that overlap too much at the front or you’re gonna be the host of the Flashy Panties Party ๐Ÿ‘€

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The buttons and buttonholes are only meant to be on the inside layers of the waistband on version A (if you make the reversible version you’ll see buttons on the outside as well, though). Because I wanted to try my skirt on properly – ie with the waistband attached – and because my spidey-sense told me that the skirt might be a little bit big, I sewed the waistband on fully before stitching the buttons and their corresponding buttonholes. Which meant that I wouldn’t be able to sew these into just the inside layer, to leave a clean waistband on the outside – but I actually like the look of the buttons on the outside. I love a good set of buttons, so unless they have to be hidden, I like to put them on show. I get a little sad when I see hidden plackets on shirts, because I feel like there’s a missed opportunity to display some really crazy embellishment. I don’t really like the clean, minimalist look in anything really – I prefer chaos and colour. Buttons are like the frosting on the cake for me, and we all know cake without frosting is totes dull and not even worth it.

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I didn’t hand-sew the facing down until the very last step – I wasn’t sure if I really liked the longer length or not, and if I didn’t sew the top of the facing down this meant that I could still raise the hem a little if I wanted to. So once the waistband was on, the skirt got a proper fit. I thought it was maybe like an inch too long… but I definitely could not muster up the will to unpick the whole of that facing, and just lopping an inch off the bottom kind of felt like a little bit of a cop-out. The facing is a nice even width the whole way round, and butchering the bottom of it and causing it to be shallower along the bottom than it was at the sides just didn’t sit right with me. So I left it how it was. If it lookedย super-frumpy, I’d have trimmed it fo sho, but I didn’t think it looked that bad. The design kind of fools you as well, because it looks much longer at the front than it is at the back.

So I stayed with the length, andย hand-sewed down the waistband which – interestingly and unintentionally – is all about the boobs on the inside ๐Ÿ‘€

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Literally, there’s boobs on every piece ๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿคท๐Ÿปโ€โ™€๏ธ

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The Agave skirt was a really quick make – I had 90% of it done within an afternoon. It would have been quicker if I didn’t sew the two front pieces to each other rather than sewing them to either side of the back, as I was meant to ๐Ÿคฆ๐Ÿปโ€โ™€๏ธ And I’d french seamed it, which made the whole unpicking process just that little bit extra. I could have overlocked the edges and just left it at that, but noooo I had to do the French seams didn’t I ๐Ÿคฆ๐Ÿปโ€โ™€๏ธ

The pattern, as per usual from Deer and Doe, is really well written with super-clear instructions. Some instruction booklets I find are really cluttered and hard to follow but theirs are always clean-looking and straight to the point. The only thing I struggled with was getting my head around which way round I had to cut the facings for the front wrap panel, as the front facing is deeper at the corner because of the extended length. Those facing pieces take up a lot of fabric and I didn’t want to be getting it wrong. I just took a moment to lay out the skirt pieces I’d cut, laid the facing template on top of them the right way around, and then transferred the template directly onto the fabric to cut before I forgot –ย again – which way around they needed to be cut. But this whole drama was just me being a bit special, and thankfully I cut them the correct way around on the first attempt ๐Ÿค“

Whilst I’m happy with the way my skirt came out and how it looks, I’m not sure I’d make another. I’ve had a particularly rocky relationship with wrap bodices/dresses – followed by a brutal divorce – and although this wrap skirt has turned out WAY better than that wrap dress did, I’m not sure it’s reallyย me.ย Although I don’t have any particular aversion to skirts, I struggle to find ones that I think look good on me. I keep trying, but I’m not sure that I’m aย skirt person. Dresses I can tolerate much better it seems – for reasons as yet unknown – but skirts? Hmm. I’ll come back to you when I’ve figured it out.

The Agave Skirt is just one-third of the new collection – there’s also two more fabulous patterns:

Screenshot 2019 04 05 at 18.09.38I’ll be avoiding the Sirocco jumpsuitย (for the ‘wrap bodice’ reasons mentioned above) but I do have my eye on the Pensee dress – I’m thinking it would look good in a silk, or rayon, as an easy-wear dress for summer… but I’m not sure on how bra-friendly the back is yet ๐Ÿค”

Poor Camille (one half of Deer and Doe) posted on her Instagram that the launch of the new collection actually crashed their website – you guys must love their patterns as much as me ๐Ÿ˜‚

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 4029

So let’s talk about these boots for a minute… cool huh? I picked them up from a charity shop in Camden purely for the purpose of using them for blog shoots (because let’s be real, ain’t nobody going to be actually walking anywhere in these ๐Ÿ˜–) I had to loosen the laces, by a LOT – I forgot that knee-high boots are not your friend when you’ve got thick calves – and even then, when I pulled the zip up for the first time, the fake leather split a little bit ๐Ÿ˜ก Oh well. You can’t tell from the pictures, so it’s fine. Plus I left the labels on the soles – looooool (thanks, dear husband, for not spotting that and telling me).

Oh and don’t worry – I haven’t permed my hair, this is what I describe as the ‘I put my hair in boxer braids for spin class yesterday and didn’t have time to wash it afterwards, then slept on them, then got up and took them out and went to take photos’ look ๐Ÿ˜‚

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If you expected my post in your inbox last Sunday at a specific time and discovered it was an hour late – soz. Yet again I can’t get my head around the WordPress publish times when anything weird happens with the clocks. The clocks went forward in the UK last week and it hashed up my usual 8am publish time. I think I fixed it for this post… but if this one was late (or indeed, early), I officially give up ๐Ÿคท๐Ÿปโ€โ™€๏ธ๐Ÿคฃ

Thanks to everyone that offered help with my hand-dyed yarn dilemma on Instagram recently – I’m pleased to confirm that I’ve successfully managed to (almost) complete the jumper without (m)any dodgy colour changes or stripes ๐Ÿ™Œ๐Ÿป I knit most of the jumper in a little lodge in Surrey where we spent a week with the dogs last month – it was SO GOOD to swap the concrete jungle that is London for some fresh air, greenery and rolling hills ๐Ÿฅฐ๐ŸŒณ

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I’ve just got half of one sleeve to go, then I’ll be attaching the sleeves to the body and forming the neck. I thought it had gotten too warm to wear the finished jumper now, but we’ve just had a couple of days of it being bloody freezing so maybe I’ll still get a chance! It’s on 9mm needles so I should be able to finish it pretty quickly – then it’s straight on to the Volt sweater which I’ve been itching to start ๐Ÿคช

07032018 SS 060 medium2

#toomanyprojectstoolittletime

#Idonthavetimetoworkadayjob

#someonepleasepaymetosewallday

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 4027

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 4042

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 4072

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 4055

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 4006

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 4026

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 3993

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 4009

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 3982

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 4015

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 4023

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 4016

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 3986

Deer and Doe Agave Skirt in Alexander Henry Las Elegantes fabric 4061

 

*The Agave sewing pattern was provided to me free of charge, in exchange for photos of my finished make to use at the time of the collection launch. I was encouraged to share my views of the pattern on my blog whether they were positive or negative. All opinions are 100% my own.

Next week on the blog is a little somethin’ new… I’m doing a first quarter round up ๐Ÿ’œ

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20 Comments

  1. Melody Srygley
    April 7, 2019 / 7:53 am

    Your Agave is the icing on the cake, and I do love it on you! I had a thought about you using ‘sticky’ fabric for the skirt – you could use a slippery fabric for the ‘inside’ of version A (the reversible skirt). No slip aversion, and easier than a lining?

    • Sarah
      Author
      April 10, 2019 / 5:12 pm

      Thanks Melody! ๐Ÿ’• Ah, yes I did think about that, but the lining goes right up to the very edge of the skirt (so thereโ€™s no facing) and I thought that you might be able to see the lining from the outside maybe… and it would look a bit weird ๐Ÿค”

  2. Stephanie Powell
    April 7, 2019 / 8:04 am

    I love the fabric near the beginning of this blog, 2 blues, bright pink and black. Is it something you have had for a long time or new? If it is new do you remember where you got it?

    • Sarah
      Author
      April 10, 2019 / 5:14 pm

      Hi Stephanie – that fabricโ€™s cool, isnโ€™t it! Itโ€™s *relatively* new… I think I bought it last year? I actually got it from the Cloth House warehouse store in Camden, North London. They might still sell it there, or even on the Cloth House website itself… or if you emailed them they might be able to let you know if they still have any! Hope you get some! ๐Ÿคž๐Ÿป๐Ÿ’•

  3. Stephanie Powell
    April 7, 2019 / 8:16 am

    I love the things you make, they suit you very well. Also you make them beautifully. I would love to wear them too, but that’s not going to happen, as I am 72 and would,’nt suit me, but mainly because I am FAT. So short dresses and skirts would not do. I have a big tummy and bum. You choose such suitable fabrics to make your designs, they are all lovey to look at. I have never looked at a blog before and I am very impressed with yours, well done.

    • Sarah
      Author
      April 10, 2019 / 5:16 pm

      Thank you so much Stephanie ๐Ÿ’• Age is just a number, you can wear whatever you want to wear! I hope to still be dying my hair pink even when Iโ€™m 80 ๐Ÿค˜๐Ÿป Iโ€™m so happy to hear that you enjoy the blog and the things I make, I hope I can continue to brighten your Sunday mornings!

  4. Bren Holmes
    April 7, 2019 / 8:35 am

    I love the way the skirt looks on you. I’m too old now to wear such a garment, but I do really like it. My daughter would fight you for those boots, too! I may have a go at the Datura blouse, time permitting. Did you make that in silk?
    Your email arrived at 08.03, perfect timing, thank you.

    • Sarah
      Author
      April 10, 2019 / 5:20 pm

      Thanks Bren! ๐Ÿ’• Nah, youโ€™re NEVER too old to wear whatever you want! Ahhh those boots are super cool, right? Iโ€™ve always wanted a pair like it – not to walk anywhere in (obvs, lol) but just to stand there and pose and look awesome in ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿค˜๐Ÿป The red Datura blouse on that post is actually made with cotton lawn, but Iโ€™ve since made another in silk and silk satin. It turned out fine – I was a bit worried about fraying at the corner of the triangles but it was fine. Just bear in mind youโ€™ll need to make tape from your fabric for the neckline, so donโ€™t choose anything that frays too badly!
      And whoooooop Iโ€™m glad I finally got the email timing correct again! (Until the next time the clocks change ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿคฆ๐Ÿปโ€โ™€๏ธ)

  5. April 7, 2019 / 9:56 am

    All very interesting models! I love fabrics with skulls and the dress with the visible zip

    • Sarah
      Author
      April 10, 2019 / 5:20 pm

      Ah, thank you! Yes, that dress with the exposed zip is one of my all time favourites ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ’•

    • Sarah
      Author
      April 10, 2019 / 5:21 pm

      Ahh thank you so much lovely! ๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿฅฐ

  6. Susan Ashworth
    April 7, 2019 / 3:02 pm

    I donโ€™t understand the aversion to slips. Most seem to feel that way. Itโ€™s just a portable lining! I usually make mine from silk. My most recent one is from a wonderful silk/rayon blend. Give it a try.

    • Sarah
      Author
      April 10, 2019 / 5:22 pm

      Youโ€™re actually SO right Susan – it is a portable lining! Think of all the time saved not sewing a lining into every garment ๐Ÿค” If I made one, Iโ€™d have to make it from leopard print! ๐Ÿ˜

  7. Angela Dent
    April 7, 2019 / 5:09 pm

    I think it is fabulous! A definite thumbs up ๐Ÿ‘ and that fabric rocks!

    • Sarah
      Author
      April 10, 2019 / 5:23 pm

      Ahh thanks Angela! Iโ€™m so glad you like it ๐Ÿฅฐ And yep, the fabric is too cool, right?! I actually have a dress that Iโ€™ve made from it last year which I havenโ€™t photographed yet… hopefully I can still fit into it ๐Ÿ˜‚

  8. Cindy
    April 7, 2019 / 8:19 pm

    That looks do good on you and I love the length and of course the boots. Xx
    Take care Cindy xcc

    • Sarah
      Author
      April 10, 2019 / 5:24 pm

      Thanks Cindy! Iโ€™m not sure which I like more – the skirt or the boots ๐Ÿ˜‚

  9. April 17, 2019 / 8:46 am

    I’m with Susan on slips [as you know lol] life’s too short to line everything! Love the skirt, love any skullish AH fabrics, and @Brenda and Stephanie- the older you get, the more license you have to wear the crazy stuff! Join me, be a bit barmy!

    • Sarah
      Author
      April 29, 2019 / 5:07 pm

      Haha, if I can find/make a leopard print one, I *might* be converted to slips. If thereโ€™s an option of a hot pink leopard one, Iโ€™m sold ๐Ÿ˜‚
      And YAS to wearing the crazy fabrics – to hell with what other people think is โ€˜age appropriateโ€™! ๐Ÿค˜๐Ÿป๐Ÿค˜๐Ÿป๐Ÿค˜๐Ÿป

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